Green Curry (Chicken)

– Degthai –

 

$14.95| April 2022

It pays to live near the 440. That’s the southern half of our “Beltway,” as it were. I say, “as it were,” because there is no single highway that circumnavigates Nashville in unbroken fashion. We may be the “It City,” but that doesn’t mean we have It City-level infrastructure. Take what you can get.

The Nolensville Road/Pike exit is near the eastern terminus of the 440, and if you’re looking for cheap eats worth writing about, it’s a home away from home. Nolensville (I’ll spare you the road/pike distinction) is also almost impossible to grasp, to wrap one’s head around, to get comfortable with. First, the road goes on for miles southeast out of downtown, and I mean miles, a multi-lane, commercial trunk-road extension of both 4th Avenue (if you’re heading out) or 2nd Avenue (if you’re heading in).

Nolensville goes way the hell out, to farmland, Amish markets, and vineyards. But for much of it, it’s actually one glorious taco truck after another — how can you ever choose? And, as befitting a road on the south side of town, it has copious restaurants with food from countries south of the United States, Europe and China, from Central American and Latin American and Middle Eastern and Asian nations of all stripes, as well as a small African contribution.

Degthai, a pretty new addition to the road, has become Nashville’s Thai trendsetter in almost no time at all. It would probably have made a ton of money on Lower Broadway, but where else could it really have put its first physical location and still stayed true to itself? To get there, south of the 440, go down the hill, past the Krispy Kreme, then back up the hill, you’ll see it on the west side of the street. Has its own parking lot, and outdoor seating, with sun umbrellas, no less. It also has food that’s in another league.

The pad thai isn’t just good, it’s sensational, literally, swirling with tangs and flavors most Thai chefs never even dream about. The green curry doesn’t attempt the same gymnastics; it’s much closer to a classic rendition. But one on its own level, the broth bracing and deep. I don’t know where their chickens come from, maybe they raise them with tender, loving care in a coop out back. Sliced scallopini-style, but a little bit thicker, the chicken is as much a star of the curry as the spices and the coconut-milk broth. They use green chili peppers, but it’s red peppers that are chunky and visible. Just one word of warning: After this, it will be tough to go back to your neighborhood Thai place. Hope you get good gas mileage.